The Kayak named A&K - Part 2

With Arjun(extreme left) & Kasimka(middle)

PLEASE READ PART-1 .....AND THEN READ ON......

Seeing me going around from their rice boat, Arujun and Kasimka, 2 friends for life called on me to enquire what the issue was. They politely offered to host me and asked me to 'Adjust' with them - in the local slang 'adjust' means to manage the best of what the situation throws at you. I was so relieved by their support.

Arjuka and Kasimka, cooking dinner

They told me their story: How the 2 of them; one Hindu and the other Muslim, were friends for life and have plied these waters for the last 4 decades! Their life was one of adventure and freedom, intertwined with issues associated with poverty and the social aspirations of their children. They were in their 60's and moved around 8000 red bricks, from Karunagapally to Alapuzha, earning a margin of 1Rs, on  each brick. They shared how the heydays saw some 25-30 rice boats being moored at KV Jetty for their night halt. Today, it had dwindled to 5 and their future looked bleak. They shared the pressure from the roadways, lack of interest and disdain from their own children as the contributing factors.  Yet, this was the only profession they knew which got them going. They were in a different world, once on the rice boat, a world of their own filled with camaraderie; there they lived, cooked, bathed and slept, for an entire week. The acquaintances they build over lifetime on the banks of the water were rekindled every time they made the trip. There was adventure in what they did and like a kid, I felt mesmerized by their stories; they looked to me like the greatest adventurers I will meet in my lifetime.

I told about my trip and how the day had been looking tough with no place to stay; how grateful I felt to have met them and the support they offered. I took a splash in the river and enjoyed the protection of Arju and Kasimka watching over me. The river was awesome, clean and fresh. Thanks to the Tsunami of 2004, this stretch was hit and remains un-touched by tourism. There was a spear fisherman who pulled out  a big crayfish. He showed me a thousand rubies - baby crayfish eyes that refracted the torch light he flashed into the river! 

We got eggs and onions for dinner that Arjun and Kasimka cooked in the wood fire stove that they stowed in the depth of their boat. They served food - Rice, Tapioca, fish curry and hot egg omelette! It was unbelievable for me to see them cook using fire in a wooden boat. We continued to exchange thoughts and I was thrilled listening to them under the starlit night with the sound of ocean waves on the nearby beach, 500 meters away. They shared how they would start very early the next morning to make the best of the tides that would carry them closer to Alapuzha. I told them about my dream to be part of their journey at a later time and feel the life they have lived over the last 4 decades.

Midnight breakfast - Kasimka and Arjun, in the middle

We went to sleep and I retired to the veranda of the neighbouring shop as the dew was making me uncomfortable in the boat. The next day morning, around 3AM, I could hear Arjun and Kasimka waking up to start their day. I joined them for a quick breakfast! Yes the KV Jetty Kapikada was really early. After breakfast, we exchanged phone numbers and they said their good byes. I promised to join them in one of their trips.

I was thrilled to meet Arjun and Kasimka; dreamed about the journey with them from Karunagapally on their rice boat and thanked my good luck for running into them. I wondered, will my generation and the next ever live how Arjun and Kasimka did? have the knowledge to ply the waterways, how they and their ancestors did? With them, an entire culture will be gone. I was lost in thoughts as to how we could document their lives and skills; keeping it for future generations to ponder, about a bygone era of the rice boatmen!

Saying the goodbyes

I made a promise to myself that day; if and when I get a new kayak, I will christen it as Arjun and Kasimka, as a gratitude to their hospitality and a salute to the adventure they seek in daily lives; something we need to learn from!

I held on till around 5 before paddling south into the dark, my destination was Kollam, another 50Km or so! As I reached the 'locks' near Thrikunnapuzha, the experience of the previous day dawned on me. By the time I had reached Coir Village, south of Thrikunnapuzha I had decided to call the trip off. I did not want to take the chance of running around without a place to pitch my tent. I called my classmate Renjith from Mavelikara, to ferry me and the kayak, back to Changanacherry. It was past 10:00, when Renjith came over and helped me back.

The fond memories of that trip lingers on, as we get ready for Expedition NW3. Arjun, passed away a year or so back and it's been quite some time since I called up Kasimka. I am thinking of inviting Kasimak to the lauch ceremony of our expedition in Kollam, come January 2014. The new kayak for the expedition should reach in a few weeks. I am calculating the size and font of the letters that will be pasted on the kayak to be christened "A&K", as my tribute to the adventure and hospitality of the two oarsmen friends; Arjun and Kasimka!

Morning mist, rising from Pallana river.

The Kayak named A&K - Part 1

Stretch from Chengannur to Pandanadu

As the day Kayaking trips got boring, the idea of doing an overnight weighed heavy. The place I attended my Engineering college, Kollam, loomed large as the destination. I was travelling to my wife, Sindhu's palce in Chengannur with family and hence decided to launch from Aaratukadavu, close to the Mahadeva temple. My Mom had a hundred questions; What are you up to, where will you stay?; be careful! I never blame her, for the kind of news you see in "Gods own country"; remindes you of how good and bad co-existing everywhere, whatever be the label. It was early December morning as I launched the Kayak following the ritual of offering it to the river; symbolically splashing water three times before taking seat. How can I not?, for the power that water commands! Every time, launching with my Kayak reminds me of the permission for Taxi, as I pushed the throttle during my flying days.....always with a prayer in my mind; both air and water are alien environment!

Sunrise

As I paddled, one could feel the depth of river Pampa, her darkness amplified by unchecked sand extraction and the stories Grandfather shared years back of spirits! I prayed to all gods as I paddled with my headlights ON and barely making out the course to follow. You could hear the gill net fisherman in the dark. The sun started peeking somewhere behind the western Ghats, lighting the sky crimson red. December is the so called winter in Kerala and you can admire the evaporation from the river condensing on the surface itself and gently being blown by the breeze; a thousand spirits loomed in front, as I headed to my next destination - Pandanadu(The place believed to be habited by the Pandavas, during their vanvas)!

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Kadathuvallam - River cossing point along Pampa

I could see my Dad, run into the river from the banks of the Pampa. He shares his fond childhood memories and one among them I vividly remember is how he with his friends would run after their school in Kallisherry, leaving the books on the river bank and then taking the splash in Pampa before heading home. He shared how the sand bars stretched from either bank and how one could walk over them during summer. Thanks to gulf boom and the Malayalees social pressure of "We two, our biiiiiig home" concept, the pressure on land and water is alike. Sand extraction has left the rivers in dire straits.

Slowly, Pandanadu gave way to Mannar(the bell metal heart of Kerala), where a riverside kapikada(local hotel), was the best rendezvos for breakfast. As I paddled on, the river banks were now at the water level, the first clue of being in Kuttanad. It was closing past 10:00 and the sun was getting strong, I decided to pull over at Veeapuram. Unrolled the tent and used it as bed to rest. Had lunch and it was 03:30 when I started again towards Thotapally spillway.

East of Thotapally spillway

Reaching Thotapally spillway  by around 5, I turned left for Kollam and entered Pallana River. The same river where noted Malayalam poet Kumaranashan perished in a boat tragedy, in the year 1924. As I paddled south of the Thotapally bridge, human habitation started dwindling as was the case with daylight. Being December, the days are comparatively short. As I approached people on the river bank for a place to pitch my tent, my heart beat got stronger and stronger; for none would buy into the idea of letting a stranger pitch tent in their property! I was tending towards panic and as I paddled southbound, I could see less of humans. The place looked erie - not a wind or a human soul to break the silence.

Pallana River

I was always mesmerised by tales of travellers in Kerala and how they were always helped by people when asked for refuge. This was the one reason for my confidence of pitching tent and staying overnight. I was somewhat differing in the 21st century to get the same courtesy. Why would I?; I would not like a stranger in my backyard! Times have changed, why blame the people.

Thats when my sight fell on a oars men, paddling some distance away, and I put all my efforts catching up with him. I told him my situation when he advised that I paddle further south to KV Jetty. KV Jetty was a laid back place on the banks of river Pallana, where a Road abruptly ended, cut short on its west by the river. There were 4-5 rice boats what were anchored as though they were cars parked at an angle in a parking lot. I approached few of the locals; asking help to set up my tent in a vacant property. The response was the same as my heart sank.

Not a soul in sight, Pallana River.

Read on as Part2, to be published shortly......

We have a Facebook page! Follow our FB page for more updates.

You can now follow our Facebook page dedicated for the expedition, at https://www.facebook.com/ExpeditionNW3

You can see frequent updates from the team, connect with the other followers and discuss various topics there. The FB page will see lots of actions during the expedition where we'll be constantly posting updates and photos along our way.

Kuttanad, the rice bowl of Kerala.

Reaching Thotapalli speelway from Alapuzha

Champakullam Church

The love with Kuttanad started as a kid, visiting my grandparents during summer vacations every year. One of my Aunt was married in Kunnankeri and it was the annual trip there, that got me interested in the waterways. In the absence of AC(Alapuzha Changanacherry road), KSWTC was the only option. We would start from Changanacherry boat jetty at 6 and look forward to the trip, that took more than an hour to reach Kunnenkeri.

Houseboat

Kuttanad is a strip that is below sea level! Flanked by the Arabian sea on one side and the plains at the foothills of the western Ghats, on the other. A narrow stretch of land(breakwater), few kilometers in width, works as the natural barrier from the sea.  This entire strip of land, between the sea and the backwaters has sand that is special; called  pancharamanal(sugar sand), in Malayalam. The backwaters that form kuttanad had natural tidal movement, until the Thanneermukkom bund was build north of Chertala, with help of  Dutch aid, in 1977.  Saltwater used to flow inward from the north(opening close to the Cochin harbour) and cover the entire flood plain during summer, in addition to the openings from Kayankulam canal and Thotapally. To support cultivation in kuttanad and to overcome the food famine, post-independence, the bund was built to stop the tidal movement during summer, giving farmers the ability to cultivate twice a year; Earning the title "the rice bowl of Kerala". Today, acreage in Kuttanad has come down drastically as fields are less viable and  conversion for non-agrarian use. The lack of tidal motion has resulted in accumulation of  pollutants aided by thousands of house boats that crisscross them, dumping waste and fouling the water with their engine exhaust. All this has resulted in renewed thinking among a cross-section of people, about the Thaneermukkom bund!

One cannot think about Kuttanad without refering to the concept of backwater paddy cultivation that was pioneered by Shri Murriken, who was the visionary in backwater reclamation and farming. His legacy lives on in the form of the Rani, Chitra and R -Block Kayals, many of which are in ruins. For more details, please refer wikipedia.

Coconut palm

As I kayak today on the backwaters, I am really concerned for the eco-system. Lack of tidal motion during summer results in a lot of stagnant waters in small canals. Compounding the degradation is the un-restricted construction of roads and bridges ; further restricting the flow, waste getting dumped; for want of proper awareness and infrastructure. There was a time, when you went from Muhama to Kumarakom on the KSWTC(Kerala Water Transport Corporation) boats, a section of the journey would be in water that was bottom visible clear. Today, this remains fond memory of a by gone era. Dredging for limestone on an industrial scale also contributed to the dip in water quality,  south of Thaneermukkam bund.

The unspoilt section that I have seen is in and around Pallana river, running parallel from Thotapally speelway to Kayankulam kayal, where the water is still clean. Thanks to the tsunami of 2004, toursim is yet to strangulate this section. In some places you can see the floor; and at night when you shine the torch, you will be amazed by the rubies! Yes;the beautiful eyes of lobsters that shine back at you! Here, the venice of the east is at her best. One hopes these ecosystems are conserved for future generatioin.

Anees joins Expedition NW3! Super excited!

Hi Everyone! This is Anees writing from Bangalore who has joined Vipin Ravindranath on his NW3 Expedition!

It was from a Facebook status update of Vipin Ravindranath, I came to know about his plans to paddle on the National Waterway 3 on his Kayak. He was looking for a partner to join this expedition and I didn't have to think twice before I decided to join him on his expedition. Being a passionate adventurous traveler, I have done many treks, but I knew that this was going to be something completely different. We discussed about the challenges involved and then decided to take it up forward.

Many things have happened in the last few weeks. We have been doing the ground works for the expedition. The logo has been released. The flyer is out. We are now in the run for finding sponsors who could support us in this mission and also in the process of getting permissions and supports from various state departments.

I am super excited about this expedition for two reasons. I have always been an admirer of the backwaters in Kerala and this is an opportunity for me to explore the entire stretch of the backwaters, that too by paddling on the entire stretch; sounds too exciting! I am going to be part of a mission to salute the rice boatmen who have plied on these waters for time immemorial and also get to inculcate environmental sensitivity and spread the message to save the natural resources.

You'll soon get to see the expedition logo and the flyer. Keep watching this space for more updates.

Cheers,
Anees