The Kayak named A&K - Part 1

Stretch from Chengannur to Pandanadu

As the day Kayaking trips got boring, the idea of doing an overnight weighed heavy. The place I attended my Engineering college, Kollam, loomed large as the destination. I was travelling to my wife, Sindhu's palce in Chengannur with family and hence decided to launch from Aaratukadavu, close to the Mahadeva temple. My Mom had a hundred questions; What are you up to, where will you stay?; be careful! I never blame her, for the kind of news you see in "Gods own country"; remindes you of how good and bad co-existing everywhere, whatever be the label. It was early December morning as I launched the Kayak following the ritual of offering it to the river; symbolically splashing water three times before taking seat. How can I not?, for the power that water commands! Every time, launching with my Kayak reminds me of the permission for Taxi, as I pushed the throttle during my flying days.....always with a prayer in my mind; both air and water are alien environment!

Sunrise

As I paddled, one could feel the depth of river Pampa, her darkness amplified by unchecked sand extraction and the stories Grandfather shared years back of spirits! I prayed to all gods as I paddled with my headlights ON and barely making out the course to follow. You could hear the gill net fisherman in the dark. The sun started peeking somewhere behind the western Ghats, lighting the sky crimson red. December is the so called winter in Kerala and you can admire the evaporation from the river condensing on the surface itself and gently being blown by the breeze; a thousand spirits loomed in front, as I headed to my next destination - Pandanadu(The place believed to be habited by the Pandavas, during their vanvas)!

d

Kadathuvallam - River cossing point along Pampa

I could see my Dad, run into the river from the banks of the Pampa. He shares his fond childhood memories and one among them I vividly remember is how he with his friends would run after their school in Kallisherry, leaving the books on the river bank and then taking the splash in Pampa before heading home. He shared how the sand bars stretched from either bank and how one could walk over them during summer. Thanks to gulf boom and the Malayalees social pressure of "We two, our biiiiiig home" concept, the pressure on land and water is alike. Sand extraction has left the rivers in dire straits.

Slowly, Pandanadu gave way to Mannar(the bell metal heart of Kerala), where a riverside kapikada(local hotel), was the best rendezvos for breakfast. As I paddled on, the river banks were now at the water level, the first clue of being in Kuttanad. It was closing past 10:00 and the sun was getting strong, I decided to pull over at Veeapuram. Unrolled the tent and used it as bed to rest. Had lunch and it was 03:30 when I started again towards Thotapally spillway.

East of Thotapally spillway

Reaching Thotapally spillway  by around 5, I turned left for Kollam and entered Pallana River. The same river where noted Malayalam poet Kumaranashan perished in a boat tragedy, in the year 1924. As I paddled south of the Thotapally bridge, human habitation started dwindling as was the case with daylight. Being December, the days are comparatively short. As I approached people on the river bank for a place to pitch my tent, my heart beat got stronger and stronger; for none would buy into the idea of letting a stranger pitch tent in their property! I was tending towards panic and as I paddled southbound, I could see less of humans. The place looked erie - not a wind or a human soul to break the silence.

Pallana River

I was always mesmerised by tales of travellers in Kerala and how they were always helped by people when asked for refuge. This was the one reason for my confidence of pitching tent and staying overnight. I was somewhat differing in the 21st century to get the same courtesy. Why would I?; I would not like a stranger in my backyard! Times have changed, why blame the people.

Thats when my sight fell on a oars men, paddling some distance away, and I put all my efforts catching up with him. I told him my situation when he advised that I paddle further south to KV Jetty. KV Jetty was a laid back place on the banks of river Pallana, where a Road abruptly ended, cut short on its west by the river. There were 4-5 rice boats what were anchored as though they were cars parked at an angle in a parking lot. I approached few of the locals; asking help to set up my tent in a vacant property. The response was the same as my heart sank.

Not a soul in sight, Pallana River.

Read on as Part2, to be published shortly......